Your First Surf
This article is based on what I teach my students during their first lesson or two. I realize it's a bit harder to understand without a live demonstration, but if you wish to practice jump ups and so on, get a friend to read you the tips while you do it.
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A question: What do you think is the most dangerous thing about surfing?
When I ask people this they often reply, "Sharks!", "Rocks!" or even "Sand!" ...But it's actually other surfers. And to them, you're also another surfer.
So the most important thing you can do in the water is control your own board. The board is attached to you by a leg rope. When you put it on you should have it around your back foot (more on that later) with the leash out to the side and the fat end of the leash at the back.
NEVER put the board between the wave and yourself. The board will fly back and hit you, and it's not pretty. When you are going out into the ocean, hold it out at your side, hands on the rails, with the nose facing towards the ocean.
NEVER LET GO OF YOUR BOARD. If a wave comes you can lift it over, push it through, or if it's really big, grab the front and dive under (with the board still at your side, facing forwards so it doesn't hit you. People will always appreciate it if you don't just let the board go.
When you're paddling out, always paddle into a wave straight. If you let a wave hit you sideways, you're going to roll and the board might hit you. Same goes for catching a wave, always paddle straight for shore (until you've advanced enough to learn the proper turning technique. This is an intermediate skill and takes a while).
KEEP YOUR SPACE! Between yourself and your other surfers. See how long that leg rope is? If you lose your board it can hit anyone within that radius around you. It's all very nice to sit and chat to your friends, but things won't be so friendly if you've broken their nose. Keep at least a double arm span between you and the other surfers. I can't emphasise this one enough!
S - The first S is for straight. If you look at fibreglass boards, there is a line straight down the middle of them (called the stringer). Even if you don't have one, imagine there is a line right down the middle of your board. Now line your body up with it. You want your weight to be evenly balanced. You will also paddle onto a wave with your board facing straight into shore.
T - Toes on the tail. This is an approximation of where you should be on your board. Too far forward and you will nosedive, too far back and the wave will pass under you. This is a measurement we use on the mini-mal's, obviously if your board is longer or shorter you may have to shuffle a little further forward or back. But you'll know when you get the sweet spot.
E - Environment. Make sure you're catching a wave that is suitable for you. Maybe it's some whitewash or a gentle green one. Just as long as it isn't the dumpers. Make sure you start paddling early enough to catch it, and that there isn't anyone else on the wave already (you can pull off by sitting up on your board).
P - Paddling. It doesn't matter how many Barbie paddles you do, unless you're moving some water, you're not going to get the wave. You need to lift your chest up to get your arms in deeper. Pull your arm down like a swimming stroke, and if you paddle just under the rails you will get a nice flow. You want a deep enough paddle that the water is over your elbow. A few of these slow, deep paddles, is far better than frantic ones.
S - Standing. The hard part! To practice this, get a friend to read you the tips as you do it. Lie down on your board and go through the previous STEPS so you're in the right position. Visualise it.
Pull your hands up right by your chest in a push up position. Your arms should look like chicken wings. Now push through and jump up. To land in the correct position your front foot should be in the centre of the board, your back foot one step behind. Your body should be completely side (as are your feet) on with your head facing forwards.
It takes practice to get it right, but the easiest way is not to think about it too hard. Dumb it down. Try not to get your legs tangled together and instead focus on going from facing forwards to having your body sideways in one fluid motion.
Article by Kristen Veltmeyer
(contact COTW for Kristen's contact details)
CHOOSING A BOARD
YOUR FIRST SURF
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BREAK FOR YOU
COMPETITION SURFING
ETIQUETTE
NUTRITION FOR SURFERS
........................................................................................
A question: What do you think is the most dangerous thing about surfing?
When I ask people this they often reply, "Sharks!", "Rocks!" or even "Sand!" ...But it's actually other surfers. And to them, you're also another surfer.
So the most important thing you can do in the water is control your own board. The board is attached to you by a leg rope. When you put it on you should have it around your back foot (more on that later) with the leash out to the side and the fat end of the leash at the back. NEVER put the board between the wave and yourself. The board will fly back and hit you, and it's not pretty. When you are going out into the ocean, hold it out at your side, hands on the rails, with the nose facing towards the ocean. NEVER LET GO OF YOUR BOARD. If a wave comes you can lift it over, push it through, or if it's really big, grab the front and dive under (with the board still at your side, facing forwards so it doesn't hit you. People will always appreciate it if you don't just let the board go. When you're paddling out, always paddle into a wave straight. If you let a wave hit you sideways, you're going to roll and the board might hit you. Same goes for catching a wave, always paddle straight for shore (until you've advanced enough to learn the proper turning technique. This is an intermediate skill and takes a while). KEEP YOUR SPACE! Between yourself and your other surfers. See how long that leg rope is? If you lose your board it can hit anyone within that radius around you. It's all very nice to sit and chat to your friends, but things won't be so friendly if you've broken their nose. Keep at least a double arm span between you and the other surfers. I can't emphasise this one enough!
The 'STEPS' technique
When I teach people to surf, I use something I made up called the 'STEPS' technique. So I get them to lie down on their boards and go through the letters with me.S - The first S is for straight. If you look at fibreglass boards, there is a line straight down the middle of them (called the stringer). Even if you don't have one, imagine there is a line right down the middle of your board. Now line your body up with it. You want your weight to be evenly balanced. You will also paddle onto a wave with your board facing straight into shore.
T - Toes on the tail. This is an approximation of where you should be on your board. Too far forward and you will nosedive, too far back and the wave will pass under you. This is a measurement we use on the mini-mal's, obviously if your board is longer or shorter you may have to shuffle a little further forward or back. But you'll know when you get the sweet spot.
E - Environment. Make sure you're catching a wave that is suitable for you. Maybe it's some whitewash or a gentle green one. Just as long as it isn't the dumpers. Make sure you start paddling early enough to catch it, and that there isn't anyone else on the wave already (you can pull off by sitting up on your board).
P - Paddling. It doesn't matter how many Barbie paddles you do, unless you're moving some water, you're not going to get the wave. You need to lift your chest up to get your arms in deeper. Pull your arm down like a swimming stroke, and if you paddle just under the rails you will get a nice flow. You want a deep enough paddle that the water is over your elbow. A few of these slow, deep paddles, is far better than frantic ones.
S - Standing. The hard part! To practice this, get a friend to read you the tips as you do it. Lie down on your board and go through the previous STEPS so you're in the right position. Visualise it.
Pull your hands up right by your chest in a push up position. Your arms should look like chicken wings. Now push through and jump up. To land in the correct position your front foot should be in the centre of the board, your back foot one step behind. Your body should be completely side (as are your feet) on with your head facing forwards.
It takes practice to get it right, but the easiest way is not to think about it too hard. Dumb it down. Try not to get your legs tangled together and instead focus on going from facing forwards to having your body sideways in one fluid motion.
Article by Kristen Veltmeyer
(contact COTW for Kristen's contact details)
CHOOSING A BOARD YOUR FIRST SURF CHOOSING THE RIGHT BREAK FOR YOU COMPETITION SURFING ETIQUETTE NUTRITION FOR SURFERS
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