Choosing a Board...
So, you want to learn to surf? Well, first things first - you're going to need a board. There are three main types of boards you can purchase.
THE SOFT BOARD
This is made of foam and can be seen in action at most surf schools. It costs around $500 for a new one, or you can pick up some second hand ones from surf shops, schools or even Ebay for as little as $200-250. The advantages of the soft board are that it's buoyant, wide and easy to catch waves on. As it's soft, it's much harder to hurt yourself falling off. There are rubber fins, which mean less fin slashes. Also, a soft board basically signals to everyone that you are a beginner, and you'll find they are therefore more accommodating of your initial floundering. The main disadvantage of the soft board is that once you are past the beginner phase, you will need to purchase a fibreglass board to keep progressing.
THE FIBREGLASS BOARD
A fibreglass board is composed of three elements. Firstly, in the centre there is a foam blank. This is the core of your board. Around this is some matting, and then this is covered by a layer of fibreglass. The main advantage is that you can surf this board as long as you like, and the majority of other surfers ride the same sort. You can often get advice from those with similar boards on how to best utilize its' abilities. If it gets dinged, the board will normally be okay for another surf or two, provided you put waterproof tape over the hole. The disadvantage: It's easy to hurt yourself. Normally a bad injury won't happen unless you can't handle your equipment or are surfing in conditions far beyond your ability, however prepare yourself for small bruises, cuts and battle scars.
THE EPOXY BOARD
Jury's still out on this one. Similar to a fibreglass board but covered in Epoxy resin. These boards are hard wearing, which means they get less dings than a fibreglass board. However, when you do ding it, you must get it fixed IMMEDIATELY, and it does cost a lot more. Still, they're more buoyant than fibreglass, making for fun smaller days. In summary - it's not good or bad, just different. A board like this may be a good addition to your collection.
When standing next to a potential board, always stand in front of it with your arm straight up in the air. You want it to be at least as high as your wrist, so that it's not too short to put your toes over the tail without sinking the nose. When looking at the width of a board, it needs to be at least 19 inches and not too thin if you are an adult. This means it will float you, allowing you to paddle onto waves without sinking.
There's nothing more frustrating than seeing a beginner on a tiny short board. Forget looks or cool sprays, for your first board, you want something that is going to get you on those waves. When you get better, you can choose whether your next board will be longer or shorter, depending on your surfing style and the waves on offer.
THE LONGBOARD
A longboard is traditionally any board over 9 foot. The floatation is a huge advantage when paddling out or getting onto waves. An advantage long boarders have is that they can get on the wave earlier. This enables them to sit further out than the short boarders, and therefore have first pick on the incoming waves. The disadvantages: the size. If you are 5"6 and ever have to carry a 9"3 down the beach, you'll know exactly what I mean! Travelling with it is much harder. You can't duck dive them; instead you have to do an 'eskimo roll'. More board means more risks; it's important you learn to control it straight away as letting it go is a huge hazard to other surfers. It's very hard to take a steep drop on a long board, hence why you should get on the wave earlier.
My first board was just a fraction shorter, at 8"3. I found it a good size for me when I was learning as I had very little arm strength or paddling power for the first few months. Long boarding is also a different attitude - you'll find most are very friendly and less aggressive than their younger shortboard counterparts. Also, there are a lot of other beginners using the same board, which means you can swap tips.
THE SHORTBOARD
Unless my client is a young child or extremely fit, I generally tell them to steer clear of shortboards for at least six months. A shortboard requires a much higher level of fitness due to the amount of paddling. It's important to have an excellent paddling technique as otherwise you will use up too much energy without results. It generally takes about 3 or 4 months to get your paddling to a good level, which can be too frustrating for beginners wanting to catch waves. The advantages are that you can duck dive through waves, which is an amazing feeling. Again, this requires proper technique. There are far more 'tricks' that you can do on a shortboard. To understand the difference, imagine a skateboard ramp. A person on a regular skateboard has far more options than that of someone on a retro Malibu shape. They are also extremely responsive compared to longboards. For example, a move that would get you a small turn on a Malibu will get you a big turn on a shortboard.
I started riding my friends' shortboard about a year ago. I feel at my most comfortable on either a 6"4 or 6"6, which is 19 and a half inches wide most of the way through, and over 2 and half inches thick. It's big enough to float me, yet small enough to throw my weight into some carves. Duck diving feels incredible, and is far easier than the constant 'eskimo' rolls to get through sets on a longboard. You can take much steeper drops on a shortboard without worry about falling on a huge slab of fibreglass. This means you can surf bigger breaks and paddle out more easily.
Article by Kristen Veltmeyer
(contact COTW for Kristen's contact details)
CHOOSING A BOARD
YOUR FIRST SURF
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BREAK FOR YOU
COMPETITION SURFING
ETIQUETTE
NUTRITION FOR SURFERS
THE SOFT BOARD
This is made of foam and can be seen in action at most surf schools. It costs around $500 for a new one, or you can pick up some second hand ones from surf shops, schools or even Ebay for as little as $200-250. The advantages of the soft board are that it's buoyant, wide and easy to catch waves on. As it's soft, it's much harder to hurt yourself falling off. There are rubber fins, which mean less fin slashes. Also, a soft board basically signals to everyone that you are a beginner, and you'll find they are therefore more accommodating of your initial floundering. The main disadvantage of the soft board is that once you are past the beginner phase, you will need to purchase a fibreglass board to keep progressing.
THE FIBREGLASS BOARD
A fibreglass board is composed of three elements. Firstly, in the centre there is a foam blank. This is the core of your board. Around this is some matting, and then this is covered by a layer of fibreglass. The main advantage is that you can surf this board as long as you like, and the majority of other surfers ride the same sort. You can often get advice from those with similar boards on how to best utilize its' abilities. If it gets dinged, the board will normally be okay for another surf or two, provided you put waterproof tape over the hole. The disadvantage: It's easy to hurt yourself. Normally a bad injury won't happen unless you can't handle your equipment or are surfing in conditions far beyond your ability, however prepare yourself for small bruises, cuts and battle scars.
THE EPOXY BOARD
Jury's still out on this one. Similar to a fibreglass board but covered in Epoxy resin. These boards are hard wearing, which means they get less dings than a fibreglass board. However, when you do ding it, you must get it fixed IMMEDIATELY, and it does cost a lot more. Still, they're more buoyant than fibreglass, making for fun smaller days. In summary - it's not good or bad, just different. A board like this may be a good addition to your collection.
LONG OR SHORT?
It depends on your body size, age and fitness. For the sheer beginner, I almost always recommend a mini Malibu (between 7 and 9 foot).When standing next to a potential board, always stand in front of it with your arm straight up in the air. You want it to be at least as high as your wrist, so that it's not too short to put your toes over the tail without sinking the nose. When looking at the width of a board, it needs to be at least 19 inches and not too thin if you are an adult. This means it will float you, allowing you to paddle onto waves without sinking.
There's nothing more frustrating than seeing a beginner on a tiny short board. Forget looks or cool sprays, for your first board, you want something that is going to get you on those waves. When you get better, you can choose whether your next board will be longer or shorter, depending on your surfing style and the waves on offer.
THE LONGBOARD
A longboard is traditionally any board over 9 foot. The floatation is a huge advantage when paddling out or getting onto waves. An advantage long boarders have is that they can get on the wave earlier. This enables them to sit further out than the short boarders, and therefore have first pick on the incoming waves. The disadvantages: the size. If you are 5"6 and ever have to carry a 9"3 down the beach, you'll know exactly what I mean! Travelling with it is much harder. You can't duck dive them; instead you have to do an 'eskimo roll'. More board means more risks; it's important you learn to control it straight away as letting it go is a huge hazard to other surfers. It's very hard to take a steep drop on a long board, hence why you should get on the wave earlier.
My first board was just a fraction shorter, at 8"3. I found it a good size for me when I was learning as I had very little arm strength or paddling power for the first few months. Long boarding is also a different attitude - you'll find most are very friendly and less aggressive than their younger shortboard counterparts. Also, there are a lot of other beginners using the same board, which means you can swap tips.
THE SHORTBOARD
Unless my client is a young child or extremely fit, I generally tell them to steer clear of shortboards for at least six months. A shortboard requires a much higher level of fitness due to the amount of paddling. It's important to have an excellent paddling technique as otherwise you will use up too much energy without results. It generally takes about 3 or 4 months to get your paddling to a good level, which can be too frustrating for beginners wanting to catch waves. The advantages are that you can duck dive through waves, which is an amazing feeling. Again, this requires proper technique. There are far more 'tricks' that you can do on a shortboard. To understand the difference, imagine a skateboard ramp. A person on a regular skateboard has far more options than that of someone on a retro Malibu shape. They are also extremely responsive compared to longboards. For example, a move that would get you a small turn on a Malibu will get you a big turn on a shortboard.
I started riding my friends' shortboard about a year ago. I feel at my most comfortable on either a 6"4 or 6"6, which is 19 and a half inches wide most of the way through, and over 2 and half inches thick. It's big enough to float me, yet small enough to throw my weight into some carves. Duck diving feels incredible, and is far easier than the constant 'eskimo' rolls to get through sets on a longboard. You can take much steeper drops on a shortboard without worry about falling on a huge slab of fibreglass. This means you can surf bigger breaks and paddle out more easily.
THE FINAL WORD
Whichever board you choose, always be open to the possibility of surfing others. I surf both longboards and shortboards and enjoy both. At the moment I have a cross over board, or 'fish'. It's a good all rounder for me with the conditions on the Sunshine Coast, which can range from tiny to 6-7 foot. In trying new boards, you'll often find you learn more about your surfing, and get an appreciation for other surfers and their equipment.Article by Kristen Veltmeyer
(contact COTW for Kristen's contact details)
CHOOSING A BOARD YOUR FIRST SURF CHOOSING THE RIGHT BREAK FOR YOU COMPETITION SURFING ETIQUETTE NUTRITION FOR SURFERS
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