I paddled out, it was about 6 feet at Rocky Point. I remember pulling into a left barrel and then the whole thing collapsing on me. It was strange, I was waiting for all the impact on my feet, thinking I was falling feet first only to hit head first on the reef. I had been going over the lip upside down. There was a huge hole in my head. A week later it was infected and I came really close to dying. At 21 years of age I was almost a goner. I lived to surf another day.
This is when I decided to go into photography full-time. A little persuasion from God. That was 28 years ago. Since then I have lived in LA shooting fashion, travelled to some of the most exotic places around the world shooting surf, and now live in Hawaii with my wife and 3 kids. I don't surf enough anymore, but I hope to change that this year. I shoot for TransWorld Surf magazine and a wide variety of other clients. I still have a crazy scar on the top of my head to remind me of everything I could have missed if I had bit the big one.
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